Summer Travel in Michigan: Cool and Wonderful

Tired of the never-ending days of 100-plus-degree weather and drought-stricken landscapes at our home in West Texas, my wife Kathy and I loaded the car this summer and headed to Michigan. Cool breezes off the lake sounded pretty good to us.

Michigan has distinct appeal for visitors in all four seasons, but summer travel in Michigan is special. The state’s more moderate summer temps compared with much of the rest of the U.S. is part of the appeal, but Michigan offers much more. 

With more than 3,000 miles of shoreline and 11,000 inland lakes, you are never far from water in Michigan. The state is a peninsula, or actually two of them to be exact. The larger peninsula (Lower Michigan) is surrounded on three sides by two of the Great Lakes — Lake Michigan and Lake Huron. The Upper Peninsula (UP) is bordered by Lake Michigan and Lake Superior. There are also millions of acres of wooded land in heavily forested Michigan. 

If your idea of summer outdoor fun includes camping, fishing, boating, hiking, biking, sunbathing, golf, or sight-seeing, Michigan is the place for you. The state is also rich in history, culture, and fun places to visit. Summer travel in Michigan offers something for everyone.

Going Dutch

The main destination for our Michigan vacation was Petoskey, located on Little Traverse Bay in Northern Michigan. On the way there, we stopped in Holland, a popular tourist city along the west coast of Michigan. 

Originally settled by Dutch immigrants beginning in 1847, this charming town is still influenced by its Dutch heritage. Every spring, a tulip festival is held here. Architecture in Holland’s downtown district also reflects Dutch influence. Two larger tourist attractions in Holland harken back to its Dutch origins. They are the Windmill Island Gardens, which we visited, and Nellis’ Dutch Village. If you’re traveling with children or grandchildren, Dutch Village is especially appealing, with a petting zoo, rides, and games for kids. 

Of note, Holland is also popular with retirees. Money Magazine once named Holland as the fourth best place to retire in America. Holland is a pleasant mid-size city known for its Lake Michigan beaches and other outdoor amenities. Holland State Park is a popular gathering spot on the lake, especially in the summer. In addition to its beach, Holland State Park features two campgrounds. 

Bike riding is one of my favorite recreational pursuits, so while in Holland I took time to ride the Lakeshore Trail. This 20-mile, paved trail runs from Holland State Park north to Grand Haven, following the path of Lakeshore Drive. It’s a nice trail, but my one disappointment is that views of Lake Michigan along the trail are rare. For most of the length of the trail, the lake is hidden from view by upscale homes or woods. A spur pathway off the main trail allows you to ride into downtown Holland. 

Michigan is known for growing tart cherries, which are harvested during the summer months. A delicious must-stop on our trip was to Crane’s Pie Pantry Restaurant, located on a cherry farm and winery near Holland. Some friends told us how great the cherries taste at Crane’s and they were right! We enjoyed a wonderful cherry crisp dessert, but in hindsight we wish we had ordered it topped with vanilla ice cream as the waitress suggested. 

If pushed for time, there’s a Crane’s restaurant in downtown Holland, but we recommend going to the original location on the farm if possible. The farm location is a good place for photos too.

 

Little Traverse Bay

Kathy and I reserved a comfortable condo through VRBO just outside of Petoskey. This popular tourist town is one of several small and charming spots along the coast of Little Traverse Bay, in northwest Michigan. The two other main cities along Little Traverse Bay are Harbor Springs and Charlevoix, with smaller settlements including Bay View and Bay Harbor. 

It’s hard to imagine a better place to spend summers than on Little Traverse Bay. July is the hottest month of the year in Petoskey. Daytime highs average 77 degrees in July with average nightly lows of 58 degrees. For us, that’s just about perfect.

Our condo was a short distance from Petoskey State Park, a large park with a popular sandy beach, campgrounds, and plenty of woodsy trails to explore. I liked the fact that people on bikes got free access to the park, whereas motorists had a choice of a $10 day pass or buy a $17 Recreation Passport good for one year at all Michigan state parks.

On a sunny day, Little Traverse Bay, which is part of Lake Michigan, has some of the bluest water you will find anywhere. The photos with this story that show water views aren’t “photoshopped” or otherwise edited to enhance the color; that’s just how beautiful it really looks. This makes the bay and Lake Michigan great spots for boating, whether for you that means a kayak, a fishing boat, sailboat, or a yacht. There are marinas here to accommodate most any boater’s needs. Tour boats offer rides through the bay, if that’s more your style.

You could easily enjoy a relaxing vacation here sunbathing on area beaches or reading books in a shady wooded spot. If you want to be more active, there’s plenty to see and do. Petoskey, Charlevoix, and Harbor Springs each have attractive downtowns with opportunities for shopping and dining. Petoskey’s Bayfront Park is a photogenic and well-designed park connecting downtown Petoskey and the waterfront. Bay Harbor has attractive shops and a beautiful waterfront. 

One of our favorite stops in Petoskey was the giant Kilwins Chocolate, Fudge, and Ice Cream Shop on highway M-31, one of the main traffic arteries along Little Traverse Bay. Many of you may know the Kilwins brand, since they have numerous store locations throughout the eastern half of the U.S. The Petoskey store is unique. The company is based here and this store is BIG. No matter what you buy, you won’t be disappointed. If you miss this location, Kilwins has other stores in Charlevoix, Harbor City, and elsewhere. 

Up the road from Petoskey, Harbor City is one of the most idyllic cooler-weather summer vacation spots you can find. Old, quaint, and upscale, Harbor City’s bayfront area looks like a Norman Rockwell painting of old Americana. Old-fashioned homes with large front porches facing the bay go for miles along the waterfront along Beach Road in Harbor Springs and the neighboring private community of Wequetonsing. Many of these homes are no doubt the summer estates of wealthy families from throughout the Midwest and Canada. 

Not surprising, the average price of homes for sale in Harbor Springs is currently $672,000, well above the national average, according to realtor.com. Even this average price doesn’t tell the full story, since it includes homes further inland and smaller condos. Waterfront homes are selling for as high as $6.4 million.

Even if you don’t plan to stay in Harbor City, it’s worth a drive or bike ride through this town when you’re visiting Northern Michigan. Besides admiring the beautiful homes, you can enjoy the city’s nice beach park or visit the nearby small downtown district with everything from ice cream shops to art galleries.

As you leave Harbor City, be sure to take time to drive north on Michigan’s famous “Tunnel of Trees.” It is one of the state’s most scenic drives. This 20-mile stretch of Michigan highway M-119 starts off rather ordinary but before long the big trees appear, creating a nearly complete canopy over the road. While known for its trees, this route also offers beautiful views at times of Lake Michigan. This is one of those drives you take slowly. Don’t go when you’re in a hurry.

The Tunnel of Trees ends in Cross City, where you will find the well-known Legs Inn. This historic property is primarily a restaurant, serving Michigan favorites. It also has cottages for overnight lodging and a nicely landscaped yard behind the restaurant with expansion views of the lake. If possible, try traveling M-119 to Cross City at lunch or dinner, enjoy a relaxing meal at Legs Inn with views of the water, and then drive back toward Harbor Springs. 

Bicycle riding is a popular activity along Little Traverse Bay, thanks in large part to the 26-mile Little Traverse Wheelway. It is considered one of Michigan’s finest multi-use trails for cyclists, pedestrians, and skaters. This paved and well-maintained trail hugs the shoreline, offering spectacular water views at several points along the way. The trail cuts through the heart of all the towns along the bay, making it possible to travel from Charlevoix to Petoskey, or Petoskey to Harbor City, by bike. There is a small section of trail temporarily closed due to erosion problems between Charlevoix and Petoskey.

While the Little Traverse Wheelway is the region’s crown jewel when it comes to bike trails, there are many more trails to choose from. This is one of the reasons I chose this area for a cycling-focused vacation. The North Western State Trail connects with the Wheelway and goes 32 miles from Petoskey to Mackinaw City. The Petoskey City Trails include the popular Bear River Trail and a greenway through downtown. Another trail will one day connect from the Wheelway in Charlevoix and allow travel to Boyne City, but for now you can already ride the Boyne Valley Trailway. 

For those who prefer mountain biking or hiking, Northern Michigan has plenty of trails for you as well.

Traverse City and the Leelanau Peninsula

We didn’t get to fully explore Traverse City and the surrounding countryside on this trip. Traverse City has plenty of charms and attractions of its own and would make another good destination for spending anywhere from a week to the entire summer in Northern Michigan.

More so than the smaller towns mentioned above, Traverse City’s lakefront includes numerous larger, resort-style hotels with sandy beaches and lake views. This stretch resembles beach towns in Florida, except there are no palm trees or alligator farms. If you’re looking for a nice place for a summer beach vacation along Lake Michigan with the kids or grandchildren, this is a good choice.

Just north of Traverse City lie two slender fingers of land jutting into Grand Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan. The smaller one is Mission Peninsula and the larger and better-known one is the Leelanau Peninsula. Both offer scenic drives through small towns, wineries, fruit orchards, and plenty of natural wonder. Perhaps the best known location on these peninsulas is the Sleeping Bear Dune National Seashore. It includes a 35-mile stretch of beach along Lake Michigan, more than 100 miles of trails, and tall sand dunes overlooking Lake Michigan.

I hope to someday have the opportunity to explore the greater Traverse City area is more detail.

Mackinac Island: Bikes and Fudge

Our Michigan adventure continued to Mackinac Island, less than a one-hour drive from Petoskey. This tourist island is famous for prohibiting motor vehicles. No cars or trucks are allowed on the island. Residents and visitors alike travel primarily by bicycle, although horse-drawn carriages and horseback riding are also common there, primarily with tourists. Rental bikes are readily available at stores on Main Street when you debark from the ferry. 

A favorite bike ride on Mackinac Island is the Mackinac Island Lake Shore Trail, also known as the Perimeter Loop. This eight-mile, paved trail on Highway M-185 gives visitors a perfect overview of the island, from downtown to the Mackinac Island State Park. For much of the ride, you will enjoy clear water views of either Lake Huron or Lake Michigan. Most of this road is flat, so even beginning cyclists can manage it. The interior roads, on the other hand, are often hilly. 

Unfortunately, Mackinac Island does not allow electric bikes. All of the rental bikes are traditional bikes. You cannot bring an e-bike with you on the ferry unless you have a doctor’s excuse. On the other hand, we saw plenty of e-bikes on Mackinac Island. It appears that local residents can order e-bikes online, have them shipped to their homes, and ride them. So far, authorities have chosen not to make an issue of it. Given the many hilly roads on Mackinac Island, electric bikes would be very useful. Hopefully the island’s officials will someday reconsider their ban on e-bikes. 

We chose not to stay overnight on Mackinac Island due to the expense. The summer season is the “high season” for tourism on Mackinac Island, so lodging prices are quite high. You can get slightly cheaper rates staying at nearby Mackinaw City or St. Ignace, the two “mainland” towns from which ferries leave daily going to Mackinac Island. For even better rates, try Cheboygan, which is an easy 30-minute drive to the ferry, or small towns such as Pellston. 

For a memorable splurge, book a stay at the island’s historic Grand Hotel. This expansive, elegant old hotel harkens back to earlier days when wealthy travelers stayed at luxury hotels like the Grand. Even if you aren’t staying there, you can walk through the Grand Hotel for $10 per person. The views from higher floors overlooking their grounds and the lake are spectacular.

By the way, it may help to pause for a minute and explain the confusion about the spelling and pronunciation of Mackinac Island. If you’ve read this story carefully, you might have noticed that the island’s name ends with a “c,” whereas the nearby city on the mainland is Mackinaw Island, ending in a “w.” Both are pronounced the same, with the final syllable rhyming with “saw.” The “c” in Mackinac Island is silent. So why is the city’s name spelled differently, ending in a “w”? Legend has it that this spelling was to help postal carriers  distinguish the town from the more-famous island.

While on Mackinac Island, one purchase you must make is fudge. The island is famous for its local fudge. Our favorite was the dark chocolate cherry fudge, made using local Michigan cherries. You’ll find several stores on Main Street selling fudge. If you somehow get off the island without it, don’t despair. Most of the fudge stores also have locations in St. Ignace and Mackinaw City, on the other end of the ferry ride. The island and surrounding towns are also pretty passionate about their ice creams. We sampled both. 

Frankenmuth: Christmas in Bavaria

The final stop on our Michigan summer vacation was in Frankenmuth, a popular tourist town with a German heritage. It is also home to the state’s largest Christmas store, Bronner’s Christmas Wonderland. If you love Christmas, you can spend hours at Bronner’s, which has been in business since 1945. Kathy and I enjoyed visiting the Silent Night Memorial Chapel, a separate building on Bronner’s property, where we learned about the history of the famous Christmas song. The chapel is a replica of the original one in Oberndorf, near Salzburg, Austria. 

We stayed at Frankenmuth’s Bavarian Inn Lodge. It is the largest hotel in the Bavarian-themed village and surprisingly affordable given its status and convenient location. It’s not a luxury hotel but does a fine job catering to families and groups. Our room was clean and well furnished. The Bavarian Inn Lodge is right in the heart of all the stores and attractions on Main Street and the River Place Shops. Once we arrived, we only used our car to go to Bronner’s. Everything else was within walking distance. The hotel includes three dining options, including the Bavarian Inn Restaurant that features a buffet meal with Frankenmuth’s famous fried chicken.

Frankenmuth is another fun destination for taking children or grandchildren. Two hotels feature indoor water parks. Zehnder’s Splash Village Hotel & Waterpark is the largest, featuring more than 50,000 feet of aquatic fun. The Bavarian Inn Lodge includes four indoor swimming pools, three jetted whirlpools, two water slides, indoor miniature golf, and a large family fun center. If you are traveling without children, as we were, you’ll be glad to know one of those pools and whirlpools is for adults only.

Elsewhere in the city, visitors can enjoy river boat cruises, horse-drawn carriages, miniature golf, zipline rides, and trails to explore. If you are a camper or want to bring your RV, several area RV parks are available. One park that caters especially to families with children is Frankenmuth’s Jellystone RV Park. Amenities there include indoor and outdoor swimming pools and miniature golf. 

Visit Michigan

Summer travel in Michigan exceeded our expectations. It’s especially nice if you, like us, welcome a chance to escape the blistering heat back home. We have a long list of places we want to visit on our retirement travel bucket list, but Michigan is a state we would love to return to someday. There’s so much more yet there to see.

For more information on Michigan tourism, visit the state’s official tourism website.

Note: At popular lakeside and beach destinations, or in resort areas such as Mackinac Island, be sure to book your summer travel as early as possible, preferably at least four to six months. With a bit of research and proper planning, your visit to Michigan will be a trip to remember. 

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Also read these related articles:

Pasties and Yoopers: What Makes Northern Michigan Unique

Cycling in Northern Michigan: It Doesn’t Get Much Better